So I often spend a lot of time watching movies made by cinematic industries outside the U.S. (I guess the regular genre tag for that is 'foreign films' but 'world cinema' seems more apt and 100% less U.S. chauvinism), but decided I should start watching movies by directors from the U.S. that I keep hearing about, one of which is Jim Jarmusch. Jarmusch is however pretty intertwined with sensibilities outside of the U.S., Japanese directors like Ozu and Mizoguchi, he has ties to Nicholas Ray who is sort of the American darling of at least 60s French cinephiles if not most cinephiles, he knows Claire Denis who is another "everything I hear is amazing I should watch her director", etc. He seems like the product of various cinematic traditions but brought back to look at America in particular, and he's from Ohio which is like probably more than Ohio deserves. So I decided to start with a movie of his that a friend recommended, Mystery Train.
Mystery Train is a triptych of stories, "Far From Yokohama", "Ghost Story", and "Lost in Space", each centering around someone from outside the U.S. who arrive in Memphis and spend the night there (teen
Japanese tourists, a recently widowed Italian woman, and a laid-off British immigrant). Their stories all take place the same night and are tied together by the same hotel, run by Screamin' Jay Hawkins with the help of a bell hop played by Cinqué Lee. Hawkins and Lee have the same few scenes repeated across each segment as well as different ones for each, most of which are just amusing little things such as Hawkins' stealing a plum given to Lee, Lee hitting the iron bug statue with a fly swatter, or the ongoing debate about how awful Lee's bellhop hat is. They're just the sort of anchoring presences and location for all three stories in the film, not much is revealed about them at any point during the film. There's also a gunshot at daybreak in all three stories, which isn't really explained until the last story.
"Far From Yokohama" is based around Mistuko (Youki Kudoh) and Jun (Masatoshi Nagase) and their trip to Memphis, specifically to see Graceland and the Sun Records studios. Mitsuko is the more Elvis-obsessed
of the pair and she jokingly (probably) thinks Elvis' face is present in statues of the Buddha, the Statue of Liberty, and Madonna. Jun spends most of the trip saying how he prefers Carl Perkins, and in general their relationship is marked by a contrast between her enthusiasm and his stoicism, most obviously during a scene in the hotel room where she makes faces and smears lipstick on Jun's face, asking him if he's happy now, to which he responds "I was already happy." There's also some discussion of the differences between Yokohama and Memphis, with the two of them swapping opinions on whether or not Memphis is just like Yokohama "if you took parts of it away". The visit to Sun Records and the differing ways of enjoying blues, Mitsuko's enthusiasm for an icon and Jun's more directly emulating a detached coolness and rockabilly hairstyle, is sort of the general atmosphere of their segment, a love of the music of the area they're visiting but with none of the bewilderment (Ghost Story) or historical ties and anxieties (Lost in Space) of the other stories.
"Ghost Story" is the story of an Italian widow Luisa (Nicoletta Braschi) who is transporting her husband's coffin back to Rome, but has to overnight in Memphis. She walks through the streets in a way similar to Mitsuko and Jun from part one, even passing the same lot at one point, but her path is a little different, as she stops at a store to buy a newspaper and is cajoled into buying some magazines, and then stops at the diner just across the street from the hotel. That's where the first "ghost story" happens, when she's told a story by afairly creepy looking man about how he picked up the ghost of Elvis by the side of the road. She gives him money despite not believing the story, only for him and his friend to follow her as she decides to go into the hotel to hide from them. As they start to follow her you can really notice a frequent tracking shot of character's as they walk, as Braschi is foregrounded while the men creep along behind her further in the background, and these sorts of close-ups around a character sort of make me think of the extremely long tracking of actors in Mizoguchi or Ophuls movies maybe more like the latter since Mizoguchi's are often a lot further away. Anyways, she ducks into the hotel where she spends the night with Dee Dee (Elizabeth Bracco), who has just left her boyfriend but can't afford a room on her own. She goes to sleep after Dee Dee finally stops talking only to wake up to a visit from the ghost of Elvis. The visit is pretty brief and then it cuts to Dee Dee waking up to discover Luisa still awake not having slept at all. I don't really know what to say about the Elvis apparition, it fits with the general preoccupation with mourning and a widow and I suppose the sinister pair of men are a part of the creepy hauntedness of Memphis, but more likely they are just meant to be standard street harassing creeps if not worse, and the one is just taking advantage of the spookiness of the city for outsiders. This feels like a representation of what Memphis and sort of Americana are like for someone foreign to it but not in love with it, sort of haunted by the ghosts of celebrity past.
The third segment, "Lost in Space", is about Johnny (Joe Strummer), the boyfriend of Dee Dee from the second segment, who has just been laid off. It opens on him drinking in a black-owned bar called Shades (seen earlier in the film closed during the day) with is co-worker and maybe friend Ed (Vondie Curtis-Hall) getting incredibly drunk and starting to pick fights with his black co-workers who refer to him as Elvis due to his hair. The racial tensions in this scene are pretty on the surface as Johnny is upset they call him Elvis while his co-workers seem to be mostly irritated and confused why he's mad (he attempts to parallel it by saying he doesn't call them "Sam & Dave" the name of a 60s R&B duo but the one man replies "My name is Dave"
leaving him looking just rude and silly). It feels, and the later events sort of back it up, that he's upset to now be a part of the history of American racism, even if the people calling him "Elvis" don't really seem to be doing it out of any sort of malice despite how rude he is. Johnny also pulls out a revolver and mimes killing himself, but Ed stops him and Johnny gives the gun to the bartender. Ed calls Johnny's friend Will Robinson (Rick Aviles) and his "brother-in-law" Charlie (Steve Buscemi), who take Johnny out of the bar, along with his revolver. Charlie and Will were both shown earlier in the film, Charlie at his barbershop trying to fix the pole in "Far From Yokohama" and Will swearing at his broken-down truck in "Ghost Story". Johnny convinces them to stop at liquor store, at which Johnny and Charlie go in first to buy the booze while Will checks on the truck again. As they purchase the booze Will comes in and looks at a couple of bottles, only to be told to stop by the owner who refers to Will with the N-word and says "you have to watch them all the
time man" to Johnny. This prompts Johnny to threaten the man with the gun, and then shoot him. This again feels like a moment where Johnny is upset at being included in the scheme of American racism and in this case reacts by shooting a man, an action which for Will and Charlie seems like a clear overreaction. They end up driving around all night drinking after shooting, ending up at the hotel where it's revealed Screamin Jay Hawkins' character is Will's brother-in-law. They spend the night in a dilapidated room, where they keep drinking and have a discussion about how Will's name is the same as the boy's in "Lost in Space", which leads to Will saying he feels "Lost in Space" with them (two white guys esp. Johnny/Elvis who got him involved in a shooting) to which Johnny responds "We didn't ask to be white". Johnny is also upset about the sheer amount of Elvis memorabilia at the hotel, as its more evidence of a sort of racist version of American music history too. At this point the fact Johnny and Dee Dee broke up is revealed to Charlie, as well as the fact they never got married. When morning comes the gunshot heard in the previous two segments is revealed to be Johnny accidentally shooting Charlie in the leg as Charlie wrestles with him for the gun when he attempts to kill himself. I would say this segment, which is sort of the longest and definitely the most plotted, is where a foreigner (Johnny) is caught up in a part of America's past and legacy that he definitely doesn't want to be, American racism. This isn't to say there isn't British racism as obviously there is, but the character seems upset at being included by white Americans into their particular brand of it, or the casual comments of his co-workers meaning he could be. It also definitely comments on the uses of Elvis in the first two parts as for Jun and Mitsuko Elvis is the subject of a music debate and for Luisa just a strange American obsession, while for Johnny he represents all of the stuff about America he doesn't want to be a part of. The movie ends with the various characters leaving Memphis by train, plane and truck respectively, and the credits are inter-cut with shots of the train moving along the tracks. All in all this is definitely one of my favorite movies I've seen in a while, just in terms of the film-making itself, the subject matter, the way each segment seems put together to visually represent the respective attitudes to America showcased in each, it's just a really great movie, and I'll definitely be watching more Jarmusch in the future.


















